I think I'll do both, get a small tach and maybe put it on the a-pillar so it does not crowd the cockpit and also try to remain in OD. Thanks, I did not know it has a lockup converter so that alleviates my doubts about running it in OD mode at that speed. Saving fuel at speed is not an issue in any RV experience because it won't happen. You are basically driving a brick it has all the aerodynamics of a brick so the coefficient of drag increases with speed sometimes making it difficult for the trans to stay in lockup. So 65 is doable and it will shift out of lockup on an incline. 55 is kind of the cut off point where it can't makeup it mind. Your trans has a lockup converter what this means it becomes a direct coupling to the engine kind of like stick shift so when the going gets tough the lockup disconnects there is a bit of science involved but the bottom line is now the converter is involved it does some interesting things but it "slips" this heats the trans fluid not a real good thing. There are a lot of variables going on, 55 is the sweet spot if you want to save some fuel. It's really useful to be to be able to monitor the RPMs even with an automatic.Ĭhanging to a manual transmission is another option, but that's too much work IMHO. I found the addition of an aftermarket tach to be time and money well spent. You can always go back to your 4.1 if you don't like the results with the different diff. I think you can read the VIN tag and decoding it will tell you what the stock diff gear is in your rig (odds are it's 4.1). I've been watching for a used 4.88 to show up locally for a decent price so I can try this gear instead of my 4.1 diff, but haven't found one yet. There are various gear calculators out there that will help you figure out what the RPM would be in which gear. The downside to me is that with the 4.88 the top speed in 3rd gear is limited. If you put a 4.88 or 4.56 in the rear then you are going to be able to use OD at higher RPMs on the highway and this may help the OD work better and let you get up those minor hills without so much trouble. (mine is a 4 banger so I don't have lockup in OD). Given that you have a lock-up OD gear you may benefit from a gear change in the rear. Would I benefit from having a tachometer so I can decide what's best (I'm smarter than the Toyota computers, assuming) and if so, what type? And no, I don't want to swap a dash from a 4Runner or a fancier Toyota Truck, so don't even suggest that. Is there a better option? Please tell me, and thanks!ĭ. Leave the overdrive on, tone down the RPM's, and kill my transmission?Ĭ. Switch off the overdrive, stay in 3rd gear and drive up the RPM's and give my engine an early death?ī. So the question is: Given that I want to drive 65, should I:Ī. So, it seems like 55-65 is the sweet spot, and it's also where the transmission struggles deciding whether overdrive or 3rd gear is best.Īnd I want to drive around 65, especially in Arizona where the interstate speed limit is 75 but everyone is driving 90-95 like they're going to collect an inheritance or their hair is on fire (or both). But I don't want to kill the engine or transmission (I don't think it has a transmission cooler). As soon as it goes to 3rd gear (or if I switch off the overdrive), then speed picks back up and actually goes UP, to like 65 MPH without me doing anything with my right foot. But then, I get to a mild overpass and there is an uphill the size of an ant's back, and the speed drops PRECIPITOUSLY if I don't do anything with my right foot. But this is what I can gather happens: Start 1st gear - around 15 MPH, switch to 2nd gear - around 30 MPH, switch to 3rd gear - around 55-60MPH, overdrive. Here's my dilemma: The V6 engine is buttery smooth, so I can't tell by ear what it's doing (or there's too much creaking, popping, whooshing noises coming from the house that I can't hear it) . My question is this - at what is the best speed to drive my '90 Toyota Dolphin V6 Automatic camper?
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